What does it take to farm sustainable gin?

Taste In Green speaks to Oliver McIntosh, behind Sussex-farmed Moatwood gin, where rather than depleting the land it uses, farming boosts biodiversity, soil health and the wider ecosystem, producing delicate wildflowers with multiple purposes, from gin to skincare.

Oliver McIntosh, founder of Moatwood gin

Tell us about you. How did you get into the world of English gin?

I was working in the City in London when I first visited the estate and met the team running it. They invited me out to the farm to see the regenerative practices in action, and I was immediately hooked. Watching the land being cared for and brought back to life was genuinely inspiring.

So when the idea of creating an English gin using botanicals that play an active role in the estate’s ecosystem came up, it was impossible not to get excited. From there, we spent a long time perfecting the recipe and the process because if we were going to do this, it had to be done properly.

What do you need to consider when farming gin with the planet in mind?

A number of factors come into play, but one standout is that farming accounts for a significant share of the CO₂ and greenhouse-gas footprint in alcohol production. For us, the focus is on doing our best to ensure our farming practices work in harmony with the planet, nurturing soil health, supporting biodiversity, and managing what we can. By taking care on the farm, we hope to protect the environment while growing ingredients that contribute to the quality of our gin

Tell us more about the regenerative agriculture process, and its importance

There are a number of different practices taking place on the farm. Specifically to the gin, starflower (known as Borage), is used in a wild-flower mix on rotation around the estate. Due to its deep roots and flower being brilliant for the pollinators it is incredible for increasing overall health on the farm. We use the flower, dehydrated as one of our eight delicious botanicals. The seed is also used for a number of different health and skincare purposes so the full plant is being used.

What are the effects of these techniques on the taste and quality of the gin?

Farming can be incredibly intensive on the land, and across much of the UK the focus on mass production has left soil and ecosystems in a fragile state. Our regenerative approach is the opposite, it’s about rebuilding soil health, increasing biodiversity, and creating a thriving ecosystem across the estate.

The benefit of that is simple: healthier land produces better ingredients. When the soil is alive and balanced, the botanicals we grow are more aromatic, more vibrant, and naturally richer in flavour. Every botanical we use in Moatwood is hand-selected for quality, and you can taste that in the final spirit. By starting with the best possible produce, we’re able to create a gin that’s cleaner, smoother and an utterly delicious reflection of the landscape it comes from.

What do you hope for in the future when it comes to alcohol production?

I hope alcohol production keeps moving toward genuinely sustainable, regenerative practices and that we never lose sight of the joy it brings. Great drinks should both respect the land and bring people together for quality moments, connection, and a bit of fun.

Where can we find Moatwood?

You’ll find Moatwood in a growing number of brilliant places across Suffolk and London from Suffolk’s finest, including The Unruly Pig, The Greyhound, The Suffolk, and the newly opened New Street Market, to Michelin-starred restaurants such as Dorian and Elystan Street, esteemed wine bars like Cloth and Cobalto, and some of London’s favourite pubs including Cubitt House, The Surprise and The Walmer Castle. We’re incredibly proud to partner with venues that genuinely care about the provenance and quality of their ingredients.

The farm-to-fork movement is gathering such exciting momentum, and working with teams who champion exceptional produce is exactly what inspires us. It’s where Moatwood feels most at home and where we can truly add value to menus.

What's your go to Moatwood-based tipple?

Currently obsessed with Moatwood Martinis